More Than Just Pasta
Where Women Are Meeting for Casual Dining at its Finest
By Vince Constabileo, June 2002

A reader tipped me off to a restaurant that she assures me is becoming quite the womyn's place to dine. She called it the best little lesbian pasta house in Sebastopol. However, I'd beg to differ--it's really more like California cuisine.

The Menu

However you want to categorize Pasta Bella's food, you'll begin by saying "fabulous," "outstanding" or "amazing." It's not often that I'm impressed with a salad, but the Adela-Bella ($6.50) is worthy of a bit of raving.

The romaine lettuce and wild greens, grilled red and yellow bell peppers, toasted almonds and a scrumptious roasted garlic vinaigrette alone would have been enough for me to regret taking that last bite. However, tucked in between all that fresh produce are pan-seared cheese tortellini. Like buried treasure, these little surprises are characteristic of why Pasta Bella makes for a wonderful dining experience.

For an entrée, I recommend the Lisa Schiffman. Lisa Schiffman? Adela-Bella? What's up with the names of these dishes, you ask? Well, apparently many of Pasta Bella's dishes are named after folks who helped launch the restaurant. So, part of the fun of this eatery is trying to get the back-story on these folks. For example, Lisa Schiffman is the author of Generation J.

But back to Lisa Schiffman the dish ($12.50), grilled chicken, prosciutto and roma tomatoes over linguine. While the sage-cream sauce was a bit soupy, it was also so delectable that I can't say it detracted from the overall experience. Especially since Pasta Bella serves their wonderfully prepared entrees with focaccia baked daily in their own kitchen. This nicely absorbent accompaniment allows you to sop up every last drop of that rich sauce.

I would be remiss in my duties as a reviewer of good food if I didn't at least mention the Kris Richardson ($15.95), roasted butternut squash and Gruyere cheese ravioli with grilled asparagus in a lemon-saffron cream sauce. If you know a vegetarian, take them to Pasta Bella. Their vegetarian dishes are the tops.

I'd recommend a glass of the Lolonis, Cabernet Sauvignon ($6.50) as an accompaniment to the butternut ravioli. A fierce cab with chocolate overtones, it stands up quite well to the saffron in the cream sauce.

And then there's dessert. You may be thinking, dessert after all that? Yes! Pasta Bella serves up something I haven't had since my last trip to Florence, Italy--Tre Dolce Regazzi, which is Italian for Three Sweet Boys.

Imagine a warm, homemade fudge brownie with walnuts topped with slowly melting vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate sauce. A marvelous dessert at a reasonable price, $5.95--much cheaper than what I paid in Florence!

Okay, there's at least one more dessert you have to try: The Fernandez ($5.95). Why the New York cheesecake is called The Fernandez I don't know. What I do know is that this is a damn good dessert with an artful presentation. The rich cake is topped with what the dessert menu described as a "wild berry sauce." However, what arrives at the table is more than a mere sauce, it's a virtual berry compote.

The Milieu

Artistic touches are not restricted to the kitchen. Upon entering Pasta Bella you will find a mural of two women. And is that a joint she's passing to her companion? The windows are decorated with the metal and colored glass sculptures of local artist Marta Petzel.

Mismatched dinnerware lends a charming, eclectic feel to the heaping portions. Also be sure to look up and check out the clever and cute use of pasta strainers-cum-light fixtures.

And for women (and men) on the go, Pasta Bella actually has a drive-through window. Be sure to call your order in ahead of time.

The Men's Room

The charm and attention that has gone into the dining area does not stop at the men's room door. Pasta Bella's loo, while not lavish, is welcoming. The painted trim along the wall, which at first glance appears to be an unassuming stencil pattern, is actually the restaurant's logo--a nice use of subliminal branding.

A couple fresh flowers, a tiny bamboo plant and one of the fanciest t.p. holders I've ever seen round out the lavatory accommodations. And then there's the coat hook, which is something of a Rorschach test. One of my dining companions thought it looked like a pair of erections, another saw a pair of elongated breasts, a third saw a pair of drumsticks and yet another thought it looked like a coat hook (he was the straight one in the group).

So, if you're looking for a place to have a satisfying meal (perhaps after all the Gay Pride festivities) or a hearty brunch (perhaps before heading out to the Guerneville Blues' Festival), consider Sebastopol's lesbian, California cuisine pasta house. Hell, don't consider it--go!